[Chrysler300] Digest Number 202
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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 202



Title: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 202

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 17 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. sun visors / engine repairs
           From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Torqueflite question
           From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. sun visors 300F
           From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. 57C flasher
           From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
      5. Trans-Parkingbrake (broken) brakeshoe-returnspring
           From: Herman Meiners <herman440@xxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: Torqueflite question
           From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Car Show
           From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
      8. Don Verity's New Email Address
           From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx>
      9. 57C Flasher
           From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
     10. Thanks Everyone !
           From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx>
     11. Brake Shoe Springs
           From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Torqueflite question
           From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Re: Brake Shoe Springs
           From: "The Valentines" <300g@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. 1955 Chrysler C300 for sale
           From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
     15. Re: Torqueflite question
           From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
     16. 300C coupe for sale
           From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
     17. more models
           From: "Kerney, Delmar L (Del)" <Del.Kerney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 14:07:34 -0600
   From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sun visors / engine repairs


Hi everyone,

Recently purchased a 300F, and am looking for a pair of white sun visors.
Assume other Chrysler coupes would have identical sun visors which might
work as well.

Also am looking for a reliable outfit where they can perform engine repairs,
preferably in the Chicago area.

Thanks.

Alex Krikhaar


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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 15:12:24 -0600
   From: Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torqueflite question

Hi;
It could also be slack in the driveline. Check the U-joints and the Pinion
play. Lock the rear wheels and see how much play you have in the joints and
then with the trans in Park, twist the pinion yoke one way until it stops,
and then see how much it rotates the other way before stoping.
Get pleanty of expert advice at the Spring Meet in May, you're pretty close.
300 l'y, Ray Jones

> From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:33:22 -0800 (PST)
> To: Chrysler 300 Email Network <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [Chrysler300] Torqueflite question
>
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question about the torqueflite on my '66 300. If
> their is harsh engagement (it jumps), particularly
> when she's shifted into reverse, could that be a
> transmission mount? The manual makes no mention of
> that and instead suggest seven other possible causes,
> including:
>
> a) high idle
> b) high or low hydraulic pressure
> c) low-reverse band out of adjustment
> d) valve body malfunction or leakage
> e) accumulator sticking
> f) low reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction
> or
> g) worn or faulty front and/or rear clutch.
>
> Any ideas about a good way to start to locate the
> source of the jump?
>
> Also, in a related question, I've never changed out
> the trans fluid and filter, but I'm considering having
> it done this week. She's only got 74,000 original but
> of course she's 40 years old. Manual says to leave it
> unless hard driving, and it still looks good on the
> dipstick, but I don't know- after 40 years, seems like
> it can't hurt, right?
>
> Thanks a million,
> j
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
> http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 16:21:36 -0500
   From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: sun visors 300F

Hi Alex,

Congratulations on your purchase !

Alex, why do you need sunvisors, and why white  ? Are you missing yours
entirely, or are they just in lousy shape ? ?  Also, correct color for 300F
is tan - like the headliner and seats.. why do you request white ?

If you have your original sunvisors, even in bad shape, you can send them to
Gary Goers ( gary@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ) for R&R .  If you need some cores, let me
know, I might be able to help .

As far as Chicago engine rebuilder, I leave that up to someone else in that
area !

John


----- Original Message -----
From: "Krikhaar, Alex" <akrikhaar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> Recently purchased a 300F, and am looking for a pair of white sun visors.
> Assume other Chrysler coupes would have identical sun visors which might
> work as well.
>
> Also am looking for a reliable outfit where they can perform engine
repairs,
> preferably in the Chicago area.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Alex Krikhaar




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 4
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 13:47:36 -0800
   From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57C flasher

On the back of the clock, a bracket is mounted that holds a circuit breaker and a rectangular flasher.  Anyone know where I can find a replacement flasher....other than using a round one and having it dangle lose under the dash?

Zak


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 5
   Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 01:54:28 +0100
   From: Herman Meiners <herman440@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Trans-Parkingbrake (broken) brakeshoe-returnspring

I was wondering if some of you have a solution for my problem.

The large wire-spring that holds the brake shoes together is broken
in two.
I tried welding it, but it broke again after a day or two, and caused
even more havoc in the drum...

Now I've been trying to use a "regular" brake-spring, but there's not
really much room for a woundspring in there.

Anyone know if I can substitute it with something else, or maybe someone

has such a spring lying around?
Thanks and greetings,

Herman Meiners
The Netherlands.
http://drive.to/chrysler




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 6
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:15:20 -0600
   From: "Karl Peterson" <longrammopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torqueflite question

Almost sounds like the idle speed is a tad too high and the tranny is simply
"torquing up".

Karl


>From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
>To: Chrysler 300 Email Network <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: [Chrysler300] Torqueflite question
>Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 11:33:22 -0800 (PST)
>
>Hi all,
>
>Quick question about the torqueflite on my '66 300. If
>their is harsh engagement (it jumps), particularly
>when she's shifted into reverse, could that be a
>transmission mount? The manual makes no mention of
>that and instead suggest seven other possible causes,
>including:
>
>a) high idle
>b) high or low hydraulic pressure
>c) low-reverse band out of adjustment
>d) valve body malfunction or leakage
>e) accumulator sticking
>f) low reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction
>or
>g) worn or faulty front and/or rear clutch.
>
>Any ideas about a good way to start to locate the
>source of the jump?
>
>Also, in a related question, I've never changed out
>the trans fluid and filter, but I'm considering having
>it done this week. She's only got 74,000 original but
>of course she's 40 years old. Manual says to leave it
>unless hard driving, and it still looks good on the
>dipstick, but I don't know- after 40 years, seems like
>it can't hurt, right?
>
>Thanks a million,
>j
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
>http://sports.yahoo.com/




_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 7
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:05:40 EST
   From: LOUISENYLA@xxxxxxx
Subject: Car Show

Hi Gang,

Thought I'd boast a little.  I entered the "F" in the Jewel City Kiwanis Car
Show in Glendale, CA this past Sunday.  It took 1st Place in our class.  2nd
Place went to a 1960 Plymouth Fury.  I don't remember what came in 3rd.

That was our first 1st Place.

Ted & Louise Larangeira


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:46:40 -0500
   From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Don Verity's New Email Address

Hi Gang -

Does anyone know Don Verity's new email address ?

Thanks,

Ron



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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 9
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 19:35:43 -0800
   From: "David Zakarian" <arshog@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 57C Flasher

Thanks to everyone who answered my question about the rectangular flasher.  Apparently, I'm the last one in the club to realize that the round flasher will fit in the square hole.  Didn't they try to teach us, when we were very young, that the round peg doesn't fit in the square hole.  Well, that goes to show I must have been the only one listening that day.  Thanks for all your responses.

Zak


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 10
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 23:32:56 -0500
   From: "Ron Waters" <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Thanks Everyone !

I still had Don Verity's @home address, which is what was listed in the Club
News, Winter 2002.  The Cox address looks good.

Ron



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 11
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 20:34:39 -0800
   From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Brake Shoe Springs

Herman Meiners' message struck a chord with me.

In the past, the rear drums in my G have scraped against the springs and wore a noticeable amount of metal away on the side of the spring.  When I did the brakes 3 years ago, I checked and adjusted the axle shaft end play, but didn't have a source for new springs, so I put the old ones back in place.  At this point I think the rubbing problem is gone as haven't heard the tell-tale squeak as I navigate cloverleaf's.  I sure would like to get new replacements though.  Can anyone recommend a source for new brake springs?

Bob J



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
   Date: Wed, 20 Mar 2002 22:13:42 -0800
   From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torqueflite question

Hi Jonathan and all.

You can check the trans mount. Jack up the trans by the
tail shaft housing just behind the mount. If the car starts to
raise and the rubber mount does not separate the mount
should be ok. Don't jack up much you may damage it.
If it is bad it will separate with a small amount lift.

a) I am sure you aware of idle.

b) High pressure I doubt. Pressure adjusting screw
  would have to be turned in against spring pressure.
Low pressure, possible due to wear or failure of rubber
and steel seal rings. You can test or have tested for
correct pressure.
c) Band adjustment is not rocket science. Look in manual
it will show where low reverse band adjuster is. Loosen
lock nut and mark and count the turns as you tighten the
adj. bolt. This is in case you want to return it back to where it was.
With out a inch pound torque wrench use a end wrench,
I belive that is 7/16". Pull on the end of wrench with one finger
until you fell the pressure on your finger. Now you need to back
off adj. bolt 2 1/2 to 3 turns. Check manual for your car.
d thru g. Pull the trans and rebuild it.

Hope that helps

Gary, The Parts Doc





At 11:33 AM 3/20/2002 -0800, Jonathan Sacks wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Quick question about the torqueflite on my '66 300. If
>their is harsh engagement (it jumps), particularly
>when she's shifted into reverse, could that be a
>transmission mount? The manual makes no mention of
>that and instead suggest seven other possible causes,
>including:
>
>a) high idle
>b) high or low hydraulic pressure
>c) low-reverse band out of adjustment
>d) valve body malfunction or leakage
>e) accumulator sticking
>f) low reverse servo, band or linkage malfunction
>or
>g) worn or faulty front and/or rear clutch.
>
>Any ideas about a good way to start to locate the
>source of the jump?
>
>Also, in a related question, I've never changed out
>the trans fluid and filter, but I'm considering having
>it done this week. She's only got 74,000 original but
>of course she's 40 years old. Manual says to leave it
>unless hard driving, and it still looks good on the
>dipstick, but I don't know- after 40 years, seems like
>it can't hurt, right?
>
>Thanks a million,
>j
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage
>http://sports.yahoo.com/
>
>
>To send a message to this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For list server instructions, go to
>http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
>To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 13
   Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 04:46:22 -0500
   From: "The Valentines" <300g@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake Shoe Springs

2 or 3 years ago I purchased new springs from Mitchell's. He may still have
a supply on hand. I do not remember the cost but I don't think it was too
outrageous.
 I do not have my literature before me but I remember some information in a
service bulletin about heavy duty springs. The springs are color coded and I
think the red ones are the heavy duty ones. I hope this may have helped and
if you need more accurate info  I could find it later.
 You can also try some of the other vendors like Gary Goers, Andy Bernbaum,
Brad's NOS Parts, Valley Vintage and others.
I just did a part number search (2267066- I believe that this is the
standard spring and not the heavy duty)  and if the count is correct valley
vintage has 10 and some of the others listed above have a few each. Valley
Vintage may be used springs.
Good luck in your search.

Charlie Valentine,G
 ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Chrysler 300 Email Network" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2002 11:34 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Brake Shoe Springs


> Herman Meiners' message struck a chord with me.
>
> In the past, the rear drums in my G have scraped against the springs and
wore a noticeable amount of metal away on the side of the spring.  When I
did the brakes 3 years ago, I checked and adjusted the axle shaft end play,
but didn't have a source for new springs, so I put the old ones back in
place.  At this point I think the rubbing problem is gone as haven't heard
the tell-tale squeak as I navigate cloverleaf's.  I sure would like to get
new replacements though.  Can anyone recommend a source for new brake
springs?
>
> Bob J
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 14
   Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:01:36 -0500
   From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 1955 Chrysler C300 for sale

Saw this on the internet.
It looks like one of the Chicken Coop cars..

1955 Chrysler C300 for sale. White. Recent Georgia car. AC, power windows front, crank rear. Car needs restoration, but is complete, except for side rear "Chrysler 300" fender script. Still has batwing air cleaners. Car is Class 5/6, and is priced accordingly. Car is located in southern West Virginia. 540-818-0767.



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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 15
   Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:37:27 -0500
   From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Torqueflite question

Hi All,
  Gary raised some good points. However no-one has mentioned the throttle
lever adjustment, which everyone calls the "kickdown rod" This rod controls
throttle pressure in the trans. If it's improperly adjusted or missing, it
will cause all kinds of problems including rough engagement. Even if it's
adjusted properly, if the idle speed is to high, it will act on this rod
raising the pressure in the trans and causing the same thing. Also, the
proper way to adjust bands is with an inch pound torque wrench. Everyone's
"finger tight" is different. The spec is for 72 inch pounds, which is a good
deal more than finger tight. Anyone who is not an experienced transmission
mechanic should follow the repair manual to the letter or have a
professional do it.
300ly,
      Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 Email Network
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Torqueflite question


> Hi Jonathan and all.
>
> You can check the trans mount. Jack up the trans by the
> tail shaft housing just behind the mount. If the car starts to
> raise and the rubber mount does not separate the mount
> should be ok. Don't jack up much you may damage it.
> If it is bad it will separate with a small amount lift.
>
> a) I am sure you aware of idle.
>
> b) High pressure I doubt. Pressure adjusting screw
>   would have to be turned in against spring pressure.
> Low pressure, possible due to wear or failure of rubber
> and steel seal rings. You can test or have tested for
> correct pressure.
> c) Band adjustment is not rocket science. Look in manual
> it will show where low reverse band adjuster is. Loosen
> lock nut and mark and count the turns as you tighten the
> adj. bolt. This is in case you want to return it back to where it was.
> With out a inch pound torque wrench use a end wrench,
> I belive that is 7/16". Pull on the end of wrench with one finger
> until you fell the pressure on your finger. Now you need to back
> off adj. bolt 2 1/2 to 3 turns. Check manual for your car.
> d thru g. Pull the trans and rebuild it.
>
> Hope that helps
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 16
   Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:59:50 -0500
   From: "Vath, Michael J." <mjvath@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300C coupe for sale

A busy day!
I just got another call from a friend about a west coast 300C coupe for sale. Supposedly a factory red car. I don't know if it's a club member's / registered car.  Just thought I'd pass along the news.

VIN is 3N57 1848
engine # 3NE57 1025   (lower than VIN = non-orig.?)

The contact is:
Benny Buckner (hauler of the C300 listed earlier)
ph: 304-920-1422 

The info he gave me included:
car in primer
some rust in trunk
converted to 3-spd on the column (hmmmm...)
aircleaners included
not running

-----Original Message-----
From: Don Verity [mailto:d.verity@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 8:37 AM
To: Jonathan Sacks; Chrysler 300 Email Network; Gary Nelson
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Torqueflite question


Hi All,
  Gary raised some good points. However no-one has mentioned the throttle
lever adjustment, which everyone calls the "kickdown rod" This rod controls
throttle pressure in the trans. If it's improperly adjusted or missing, it
will cause all kinds of problems including rough engagement. Even if it's
adjusted properly, if the idle speed is to high, it will act on this rod
raising the pressure in the trans and causing the same thing. Also, the
proper way to adjust bands is with an inch pound torque wrench. Everyone's
"finger tight" is different. The spec is for 72 inch pounds, which is a good
deal more than finger tight. Anyone who is not an experienced transmission
mechanic should follow the repair manual to the letter or have a
professional do it.
300ly,
      Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Nelson <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>; Chrysler 300 Email Network
<Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2002 1:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Torqueflite question


> Hi Jonathan and all.
>
> You can check the trans mount. Jack up the trans by the
> tail shaft housing just behind the mount. If the car starts to
> raise and the rubber mount does not separate the mount
> should be ok. Don't jack up much you may damage it.
> If it is bad it will separate with a small amount lift.
>
> a) I am sure you aware of idle.
>
> b) High pressure I doubt. Pressure adjusting screw
>   would have to be turned in against spring pressure.
> Low pressure, possible due to wear or failure of rubber
> and steel seal rings. You can test or have tested for
> correct pressure.
> c) Band adjustment is not rocket science. Look in manual
> it will show where low reverse band adjuster is. Loosen
> lock nut and mark and count the turns as you tighten the
> adj. bolt. This is in case you want to return it back to where it was.
> With out a inch pound torque wrench use a end wrench,
> I belive that is 7/16". Pull on the end of wrench with one finger
> until you fell the pressure on your finger. Now you need to back
> off adj. bolt 2 1/2 to 3 turns. Check manual for your car.
> d thru g. Pull the trans and rebuild it.
>
> Hope that helps
>
> Gary, The Parts Doc
>




To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

 

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 17
   Date: Thu, 21 Mar 2002 08:27:36 -0600
   From: "Kerney, Delmar L (Del)" <Del.Kerney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: more models

Hello everyone,
    Looked at a carhauler model truck at Kay-bee toys and the back of the
box listed other models available to put on the truck, and listed there was
one set that comes with a C300, 300E, and Turbine Car on the trailer.  Had
to wait a couple of months for them to get their website updated, and last
night it was. They are the same cars sold at Cracker Barrel as Christmas
ornaments with the addition of the C300 and Turbine Car w/o the hole in the
console/floor for the eyelet to hang them on the tree.  These cars are 1/43
scale for  $4.99 each. From the dimensions of the car given on the website,
they are bigger than the ornament type.  They list them as being 7" long -
ornament type are only 5".  All three models are convertibles - yes, I said
convertibles. The C300 comes in red, black, and light blue;  the 300E in
burgundy, black, and white; and the Turbine car in yellow, blue, and red.
I'm sure that these are the same as the ornament cars - I think they put the
1/32 scale dimensions on the 1/43 description. Anyway, go to this site -
http://www.new-ray.com/maindex.htm# <http://www.new-ray.com/maindex.htm#>
and click on shopping mall or the "shop" icon, at the top right of next page
click "Car w/collector box 1/43 scale" and click "Chrysler" next to the
white VW convertible picture. Click on the picture of each model to see
larger view and different colors. Forgot to mention they come with the
"collector box".

Happy hunting,
 
 Del Kerney

p.s. - Have dropped AOL as home ISP, New address(es) are:
 
a61300g@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:a61300g@xxxxxxxxxxx>
 
and  dkerney4@xxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:dkerney4@xxxxxxxxxxx>

       



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



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