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There are 7 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. U-joins, everything you've always wanted to know!
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: U-joins, everything you've always wanted to know!
From: "Richard Osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. boots + trunion kits
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. replacing trunion with u-joint
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
From: Chris Davis <pngkid@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: boots + trunion kits
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Fw: Please Look at picture and forward!
From: "Stan Baker" <sbaker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 07:16:26 -0600
From: "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: U-joins, everything you've always wanted to know!
Hi Gang,
In June of last year I was able to get the front u-joint package less
housing from Big-A/Car Quest with no problem. Part #7-4266 Mfgd by NEAPCO
in Pottstown PA. These were factory order items and they showed up a few
days later.
They were able to fax to us, at the store, drawings of 2 different kits.
The one for the large front joints like on the 57-through 64 and also the
smaller one I think (not sure) is used on the 55-56 Dodge & Plymouth
(again, not sure of Chrysler) This #7-4268. Just yesterday, I ran across a
new boot for the smaller joint if any one can use it let me know.
John Is 100% correct about having a pro install the new parts on your
driveshaft. I learned this the hard way with our F. Some of you may recall
I have had (it seems now like forever) a Stumble/vibration type problem
with the F. I thought it was fuel, It thought it was electrical, I was
thinking rebuild the carbs (right John?) I was thinking new plugs, points,
electronic ignition conversion, I was pulling my hair out (those of you
who know me will find that hard to believe!) As it turned out it was the
front U-joint.
Back in '95 I was prepping the car for a 1,000 mile tour and found the
front boot was torn. I was lucky enough to have a new one on hand so
proceeded to replace it myself. Let me bear witness to the fact that
replacing the boot per the service manual instructions is MUCH, MUCH
easier said than done!!!
Sooooo.....You guessed it, I pressed out the pin, replaced the boot and
pressed the pin back in without having the correct tool (Trunnion Pin
Removing and Installing Jig Miller Tool #C-3567) Consequently....(Whoa,
try that on without spell check at 3AM!!) I wound up with an uncentered
pin and the resulting problems. This all came to a head last year when, in
desperation, I took the driveshaft out and took it to be balanced. It was
a little off, not really enough to make a big difference so thought the
guy at the shop. He taped a weight on it enough to bring it back in
balance and said to try that at slow speed to see if it made any
difference. I did, it didn't, as the weight came right off. Then we got
the bright idea to pull the shaft from the C and try it instead. Bingo!!!
no more vibration.Then I took the joint apart and found the problem. The
ends of the pin were all galled and the bearings shot. It was then that I
went in search of a new kit.
A trucker friend of mine found a new on somewhere in OH from a buddy of
his. This one is a Precision brand name part #215R also has #1098036-A on
the same label. Made by Precision universal joint corp. Chicago, IL Also
on the box is the name Cooper/Moog Automotive. Kit has everything but the
housing.and sold for $56.38 Came from an Auto Value Parts Store. If you
run across one of these kits at a swap meet and are not sure what it fits,
the pin length should be 2.875". The hole spacing on the cover and gasket
is 3.25" measured X wise across the face center to center. The pin
length on the shorter kit is 2.656" with the hole spacing 2-7/8".
More numbers, in case you really get lucky at the meet are as follows:
Chrysler part #1752-680 superceeded to 2298-941
NAPA #215-R
Detroit R-65-A w/o body R-65 W/ body
Spicer 5-1404X w/body 5-1405X w/o body
Heres a phone # for a place called Automobilia that claimed to have these
then 800-997-7998
Good Luck and happy hunting!!
Dave Schwandt
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:12:57 -0500
From: "Richard Osborne" <richard@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: U-joins, everything you've always wanted to know!
Hello Group,
I am on my way out of the country, again, so a quick message.
I had the driveshaft for my G rebuilt last year by:
Driveline 1
1369-A Frank Road
Columbus, OH 43223
614-279-7734
This is a small company owned by a couple of good old boys, one of
which has a nasty black '69 or '70 300 with big meats on the back and
skinnies in the front.... ( I haven't seen it in years)
I have had these guys do many driveshafts for me, from racecars to
restorations. As soon as I walked in the door with G driveshaft in hand,
the comment that came my way was "You and your damn Mopars!" This was
done tounge in cheek as Bruce is a bit of a wise acre. Keep in mind, he
recongnized the application without the car attached.
I tell this story only because these guys know our cars. He told me
that the Ball and Trunions were getting difficult to find. I doubt that
these guys have any connections that John Hertogs source wouldn't , but
it may be worth a try. If nohing else, they can do the work for you.
Just be prepared for an earful if you call them.
Good luck, I know this will not go over well with the purests, but the
guys at Driveline 1 recommended converting the ball and trunion to a
standard U-Joint. This was not the direction I went, but probably will
next time it needs serviced.
Best regards,
Richard Osborne
>>> "David Schwandt" <finsrus@xxxxxxxx> 02/22/02 08:16AM >>>
Hi Gang,
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 11:17:48 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: boots + trunion kits
Re: front trunion joints
A member of this list suggested using CV-type axle boots to replace the
rubber boots on the front trunions. Bad idea ! CV-type axle boots are made
of thermosplastic, and cannot withstand the centrifugal forces that occur
at
DRIVESHAFT speed. A Constant Velocity joint spins at tire RPM - about
600 - 650 rpms . The boots are designed to handle 1000 rpms' - and not
much more. A driveshaft, on the other hand, spins at 4500 rpms or more
depending on tire size and gear ratio . CV boots will explode at that
kind
of RPM .
I agree with those that have stated that new rebuild trunion kits are
still
available here and there . What's NOT so easily available anymore is the
front HOUSING . It used to be that we could order either a simple rebuild
kit with just the guts , or a complete kit with guts + housing. . Of
course
there still are some out there gathering dust, one has to be lucky and
find
them.
One word of warning : try to stick with name-brand rebuild kits if at all
possible. I destroyed a perfectly good housing last year when the new and
freshly-installed PIN broke ! This one came from an off-brand rebuild
kit.
Careful examination of the pin showed a defect in the metallurgy .
John
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:18:46 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: replacing trunion with u-joint
Hi Richard, and all
Everytime I talk to Frank, at "The Driveshaft Shop" in Bohemia, LI ( 1 800
564-2244)
he also suggests replacing the trunion with a regular u-joint and
slip-yoke
.
"The Driveshaft Shop" is a large, well-established rebuilder of
driveshafts
and CV-joints. They also do specialized driveshaft work, for racing,
custom
fabrications, etc. ; when I keep blowing driveshafts in my '62 300, they
invited me to bring it in, put it up on a lift, took measurements, and
repaired (once again) my driveshaft without ever charging me a dime for
their services. This is the car that I used to drag race.
My feeling about this is that the front joint system ( trunion) installed
in
the cars was more than suitable for years and years of good service ; so
far
I have resisted making such a change, especially on cars like my gold 300G
that I prefer to keep as original as possible.
As the parts to rebuild the trunions become harder and harder to find, we
might just have to consider making such a change. Of course, we could keep
our original driveshafts and bolt in a replacement slip-yoke style...
John
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 15:46:11 -0600
From: Chris Davis <pngkid@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: replacing trunion with u-joint
Can the cast iron tranny (specifically a 300 C) be converted to a
slip-yoke driveshaft?
John Hertog wrote:
> Hi Richard, and all
>
> Everytime I talk to Frank, at "The Driveshaft Shop" in Bohemia, LI ( 1
800
> 564-2244)
> he also suggests replacing the trunion with a regular u-joint and
slip-yoke
> .
>
> "The Driveshaft Shop" is a large, well-established rebuilder of
driveshafts
> and CV-joints. They also do specialized driveshaft work, for racing,
custom
> fabrications, etc. ; when I keep blowing driveshafts in my '62 300, they
> invited me to bring it in, put it up on a lift, took measurements, and
> repaired (once again) my driveshaft without ever charging me a dime for
> their services. This is the car that I used to drag race.
>
> My feeling about this is that the front joint system ( trunion)
installed in
> the cars was more than suitable for years and years of good service ; so
far
> I have resisted making such a change, especially on cars like my gold
300G
> that I prefer to keep as original as possible.
>
> As the parts to rebuild the trunions become harder and harder to find,
we
> might just have to consider making such a change. Of course, we could
keep
> our original driveshafts and bolt in a replacement slip-yoke style...
>
> John
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
> .
>
>
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:25:05 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: boots + trunion kits
John Hertog wrote:
> Re: front trunion joints
> A member of this list suggested using CV-type axle boots to
> replace the rubber boots on the front trunions. Bad idea !
> CV-type axle boots are made of thermosplastic, and cannot
> withstand the centrifugal forces that occur at DRIVESHAFT speed.
> A Constant Velocity joint spins at tire RPM - about 600 - 650
> rpms . The boots are designed to handle 1000 rpms' - and not
> much more. A driveshaft, on the other hand, spins at 4500 rpms or
> more depending on tire size and gear ratio . CV boots will explode
> at that kind of RPM .
True, a lot of the current CV boots are cheep, BUT there are
some that are of a heaver rubber, stiffer and better constructed
then others. That is why the time was spent going through the
parts bins of the wholesaler/retailer that helped me out.
The ones we found were made by Spicer. To control Ballooning
I am trying try-wraps in the pleats.
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 22:30:19 -0600
From: "Stan Baker" <sbaker@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Please Look at picture and forward!
----- Original Message -----
From: Monte or Tracy Rater
To: Stan Baker ; Mother Denton ; Joy ; jasonnicole@xxxxxxxxxx ; Jan D
Woodruff ; JAMES RICHARD DICKSON ; JAMES GLASSCOCK ; Gwen Schneider ;
CDHAWKINS ; Brian Eaves ; Bernie Holder ; Athena Chaney
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 9:56 AM
Subject: Fw: Please Look at picture and forward!
----- Original Message -----
From: Dale Sutton
To: Undisclosed Recipients
Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2002 7:31 PM
Subject: Please Look at picture and forward!
Subject: FW: Please Look at picture and forward!
Please pass this to everyone in your address book.
To All:
We have a store manager from Longs, S C who has a 9 year old daughter
that has been
missing for 2 weeks. Keep the picture moving on. With luck on her
side she will be found.
- Peggy
I am asking you all, begging you to please, forward this email
onto anyone and everyone you know, PLEASE. My 9 year old girl,
Penny Brown, is missing. She has been missing for now two weeks.
It is still not too late. Please help us. If anyone anywhere
knows anything, sees anything, please contact me at
mailto: zicozicozico@xxxxxxxxxxx
I am including a picture of her.
All prayers are appreciated!! It only takes 2 seconds to forward
this on, if it was your child, you would want all the help you
could get.
Please.
Thank you for your kindness, hopefully you can help us.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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