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There are 11 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. C fuel pressure regulator
From: "Bob Merritt" <rcmerritt@xxxxxxxxxx>
2. 60 Windsor
From: Brian Hagen <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3.
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Horns!
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
5.
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
6.
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. 300J Help
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
8. fuel tank sending unit rebuild
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
9. 300 C Carburator Metering Rods etc.
From: "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Front U joint on a 62
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Front U joint on a 62
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 06:37:18 -0500
From: "Bob Merritt" <rcmerritt@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: C fuel pressure regulator
Forwarding this fax from George:
The fuel pressure regulator was never a dealer item. This stems from
the
time when a 2 bbl carb engine had the fuel pump replaced later in the
car's
life. What happened was that many times a fuel pump of higher pressure
was
installed and the carb would flood because of too much pressure. J.C.
Whitney had those regulators for sale as did many auto parts stores. When
they failed, either the car would not run or the carb. would flood. Many
non-dealer garages would suggest to the car owner to install one of these
things to make a few more bucks because they could not correct the
problem.
Or the owner just thought it was a "neat" thing to install hoping for
better
fuel mileage (?).
George
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 11:19:39 -0500
From: Brian Hagen <brian.hagen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 60 Windsor
I saw this ad and I thought Id pass it on to the list. I know nothing
about
the car OR the owner.
1960 CHRYSLER WINDSOR, 2 door, orig black paint, 383, pushbutton auto,
very rough cond, complete & restorable, $1500 firm. (860) 536-1502. Mystic
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Message: 3
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 09:19:54 -0800
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
I would like to purchase a 57 thru 62 letter car, H.T. or Conv., 2-1/2 to
3
condition. I live in the Sacramento area and would perfer a car located
near the West coast, but will consider any location. I joined the 300 Club
in December and am a previous "H" owner ( 1964 thru 1970 ).
Doug Warrener E-Mail: dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx -- weekdays
Phone: 209-983-2341 -- weekdays
916-987-6783 -- nights and weekends
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Message: 4
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 20:44:38 +0100
From: ivan.regos@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Horns!
Hi all,
My 300 1962, was sold new in Switzerland. The horns
are made in France. I know that it should be AutoLite
horns, made in U.S.A. on the car. I have seen other
300:s with those horns. Is there someone who have
two horns in good function for sale?
Greatings from Ivan in Sweden...
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Message: 5
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:06:24 -0800
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
Gary, I would like to discuss your H over the phone. Can you give me your
number and the best time to call ?
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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 12:11:08 -0800
From: Doug Warrener <dwarrener@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject:
Zak, I'm looking for a good sound correct car in 2 to 3 condition as
described in the Krause "Old Cars Price Guide" that I can drive
occasionally
on short trips and restore to a 2 condition at my leisure.
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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 14:50:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300J Help
Hi All,
The 300H feature is at the printer and will be mailed
soon. So, now it's time for the 300J feature. There
aren't a whole lot of J's around, so if you can help
me out with a story, I really need the help!
If I don't get enough submissions, we're probably
going to have to read George rehashing his J
story...AGAIN! (Don't tell him I said that.)
Thanks,
Andy Mikonis
Editor, Chrysler 300 Club News
r41hp@xxxxxxxxx
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
http://sports.yahoo.com
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Message: 8
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 21:04:44 EST
From: joeypilot@xxxxxxx
Subject: fuel tank sending unit rebuild
Here is the email address and info from the man that rebuilds the
fuel
tank sending units. Sorry about the mix-up earlier.
Joe Schmitt
I rebuild senders. I completely disassemble clean, repair and test.
If
it
does not work you don't pay. $65+ frt. includes new sender to tank seal.
Let me know if I can help.
Gary, The Parts Doc
Reno, NV
gwn@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 18:34:17 -0800
From: "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300 C Carburator Metering Rods etc.
Subject: Chrysler Confidential Technical Bulletin #364 - Fuel -
Carburetor
Performance - 300 C
Several of you have asked about the above Bulletin #364, dated July 18,
1957. It modifies the service Bulletin No. 1002-Ch, dated March 1, 1957
which covers the data and specifications on the 1957 Chrysler 300C.
I do not think that changing to leaner metering rods will cure the
problem
of
stumbling in turns. The stumbing on turns at low engine speeds is due to
the gasoline in the float bowl sloshing around and flooding out the
carbs.
Technical Bulletin # 364, Step #6, changes the float setting by lowering
the
float. The new settings are almost double the prior distance from the air
horn gasket to the float. The new float level settings are: ----- 1/4
inch
for the primary float and 5/16 inch for the secondary float with the air
horn gasket in place. The settings in Service Bulletin No. 1002-CH for the
300C, page 15, show float setting on primary 1/8 inch and secondary 3/16
inch.
GROUP - FUEL
SUBJECT - CARBURETOR PERFORMANCE
MODELS - ALL CHRYSLER C 300-C.
We have received reports of poor idle quality, stumble or hesitation on
acceleration, stalling on stops or sudden turns on some Chrysler 300C.
Considerable improvement of warm engine performance can be obtained by
following the
service correction outlined below:
1. Remove both carburetors from the engine and disassemble each into
three
major sections: air horn, main body, and throttle body. Remove the floats
and fuel inlet valves from the air horn.
2. Drill four .0935" ( #42 drill ) holes through the vent passage boss
in
the air horn as shown in Figure 1. Access to the vent passage boss behind
the choke housing on the rear carburetor may be obtained by cutting away
the
excess choke housing to air horn gasket.
3. Remove the main nozzle plug rivets on the primary side on the
carburetor.
Remove the idle tubes---primary side of carburetor. Enlarge the idle tube
wells to .209" by drilling with a #4 drill ( .209" ) as shown in Figure
2.
Use extreme care so that the idle tubs seat ( just below the threads in
the
carburetor main body ) is not damaged, see Figure 3.
4. File the projecting pilot bosses on the primary side of the underside
of
the main body to 1/32" as shown in Figure 3.
5. Clean carburetors thoroughly and blow out all passages with clean dry
compressed air. Install the nozzle passage plug rivets.
6. Assemble the air horns and adjust the float setting; 1/4 inch for the
primary float and 5/16 inch for the secondary float with the air horn
gasket
in place.
7. Install ( Carter #120-193) Chrysler Part #1631356 ( .057" ) secondary
jets in the front carburetor only. Use the original secondary jets in the
rear carburetor. Complete the assembly of the carburetors. Install (
Carter
#75-1160 ) Chrysler Part #1631394 metering rods in both front and rear
carburetors. Adjust the carburetors completely as described in the
Chrysler
Service Manual and Chrysler Service Bulletin #1002-CH, dated March 1,
1957.
Make the preliminary idle setting by closing off completely the idle
by-pass
air screws of both carburetors. Set the idle mixture screws 1-1/2 turns
out.
The idle speed screw of the rear carburetor should be left backed out so
that the throttle valves seat. Back off the front carburetor idle speed
screw until the throttle valves seat in their bores, and then turn the
idle
speed screw w in two complete turns.
8. Install the carburetors using a new 1/8 inch thick flange gasket.
Start
and operate the engine to operating temperature. Adjust the front
carburetor
idle speed screw to obtain 650-700 engine r.p.m. Adjust the rear
carburetor
idle mixture screws for best idle performance. Adjust front carburetor
idle
speed screw for best performance. Reset the front carburetor idle speed
to
obtain 650-700r.p.m.. Road test the vehicle to be sure performance is
satisfactory.
M. J. Kollins ( Chrysler Corporation ) Dated July 18, 1957
You can tell if your carbs have been modified as you can see the holes
that
were drilled in the air horns. I have the supporting Figures 1, 2 and
showing the airhorn, main body and side view of the main body.
Hope the above will be useful to 300C & D owners.
John & Arlys Chesnutt, Portland, OR. 300C
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Message: 10
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 01:26:53 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front U joint on a 62
Hi Sean,
Welcome to the group.
The front trunion joints are difficult to service yourself. I suggest
taking
to a competent driveshaft shop . Emphasis on competent, as in having
experience with this type of joint.
In order to remove the housing, the center crosspin must be pressed out
with
a Mega-big hydraulic press. After replacing boot and housing, it must be
reinstalled, and PRECISELY centered once again.
I also suggest installing a top-quality rear u-joint ( Spicer) ; I have
seen
too many cheapo joints fail.
I am not aware of anyone currently selling new front trunion housings, or
even boots, for that matter. One of our members, George Taylor, had a
number
of them which he sold to the members of our list. Try dropping him a note,
he MIGHT have one left ? His e-mail is : gtmp@xxxxxxx . The driveshaft
shop
I used, a large and well-established company many years in the business,
is
no longer able to procure these for me.
Anybody else know where to get new trunion front housings, or, for that
matter, new trunion boots?
Sincerely
John
----- Original Message -----
From: <SADuggan@xxxxxxx>
To: <CHRYSLER300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 11:09 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Front U joint on a 62
> Hi Everyone,
> I'm new to the group, so I'd like to say Hi.
> I writing this to find if anybody has a good parts
> source for the front trunnion joint on a 62. I don't
> know if I'm going to have to replace the whole
> joint or just the worn balls. I haven't taken the
> thing apart yet because I don't like to take things
> apart without the replacement part nearby. So if
> anybody has any experience with this joint the
> feedback would be much appriciated.
> Thanks,
> Sean
> Los Angeles
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 02:27:46 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front U joint on a 62
John Hertog wrote:
> Hi Sean,
> Welcome to the group.
snip
> Anybody else know where to get new trunion front housings, or, for
> that matter, new trunion boots?
> Sincerely
> John
I had to get a half-shaft replaced on my Mini-van, while I was at
this place that wholesale/retailed these parts we chatted about
this very subject.
You can get serviceable (not original but perfectly usable) boots
from a front wheel drive vehicle. This place had a Lot of different ones
in stock, so we jsut had a field day browsing his parts bins
while my van was being repaired out back.
(Yes I did carry a 300 drive shaft in with me just for this
purpose)
--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy
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