To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ------------------------------------------------------------------------ There are 4 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. Re: This may cause some yelling and screaming From: RAKFAR@xxxxxxx 2. e-Bay probable scam with VIN de-coders. From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx> 3. re 300F's for sale From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 4. VIN De-coder,1960 Chrysler 1960.1965. From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx> ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 1 Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 04:12:58 EST From: RAKFAR@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: This may cause some yelling and screaming Regarding Jim McMullen's post on cam break-in: Jim, I think you're on the right track, but I would suggest a slightly different (and kinder) technique. Cam break-in is perhaps the single most critical aspect of engine break-in, as the cam-lifter interface is subject to the highest point-to-point loading in the entire engine. First, most cam companies offer a cam assembly/break-in lubricant (Crane's is a pretty blood-red) that is superior to molybdenum disulfide. Use it. Second, do not zoom the engine up to max revs. Not if you value it, anyway. Start and run the engine up to 2000 rpm MINIMUM, FOR AT LEAST FIFTEEN MINUTES (15 minutes). 2000 rpm is the minimum speed at which you can be assured that the cam lobes will receive adequate oil from the oiling system. Fifteen minutes is how long it takes bed and work harden the lobes and lifter faces. After this initial period the engine can be run normally, though I am still personally in favor of a "slightly vigorous" driving technique for the first 100-200 miles or so to seat the rings. Note I said "slightly"-- no drag racing! 300F'ly, Roger Karlson ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 2 Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 15:17:13 +1300 From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: e-Bay probable scam with VIN de-coders. I recently bought 2 VIN de-coders on e-Bay, one each for my 300F and '65 New Yorker. From the same vendor, one Doug Olin of Gary, Indiana, who goes by the apt monicker of 'eyes4crime'. Here is his e-Bay description: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=59765928 6&r=0&t=0 Do I read the word "original" ? with a capital O ? They arrived today, and if they are 'original", I'm the Pope !! These are copies, and not particularly good ones at that. One of the pages in one set has been trimmed with a guillotine and has a 'bend' in the cut. One other has got the numbers on the bottom of the page cut off. I'm furious, the descripion states clearly that they are original. The 2 cost me $20 which is near $50 in New Zealand currency, not really chickenfeed. Also, I checked out his auctions a few minutes ago. He sells LOTS of de-coders. All the pictures he'd posted had been deleted before his auctions were to end. The thing I find a bit odd is that everyone he's sold a de-coder to has given him positive feedback ! Well, not me. This is a scam. Mine are NOT originals, and that's a fact. I know an original from a brand new copy. Any suggestions on this dilemma would be much appreciated. I have never had anyone on e-Bay pull one like this before. Thanks in advance, Dave in New Zealand. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 3 Date: Wed, 21 Nov 2001 22:03:57 -0700 From: "Fern Rivard" <crc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: re 300F's for sale Holy cow, I had so much interest in the two 300F's but I will contact you all individually and answer your questions with digital photos where requested. So please bear with me for a few days. Best regards from Fern ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Message: 4 Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2001 18:46:07 +1300 From: "David Agnew" <Fnnutz@xxxxxxxxxx> Subject: VIN De-coder,1960 Chrysler 1960.1965. Learned Moparpeople, Anyone describe to me just how an original 1960/65 decoder looks? My copy, bought as original comes this way. P1. Cover. Factory photos of 5 shots of '60's, taking up a mere half of the A4 sheet. 12-1 on bottom left. P2. ( rev of P1) Top heading of "NOTES". And 11-4 on bottom right ! P3. VIN info. Body plate ID,etc, with 12-2 on the bottom right. P4. Body codes,Trim codes. 12-3 on bottom left. P5. Imperial trim, paint codes. 12-4 on bottom right. P6. Engine numbers. 12-5 on bottom left. These are all on 3 separate sheets of lily white A4 paper. Was the original stapled, joined, folded sheets, whatever? Anyone have one? Much appreciated evidence required about this nice little earn which is an outright scam, so I can snuff it out via e-Bay. If anyone cares to scan one and send it, I can take it!! And many thanks will be forthcoming. Thank you in advance, Dave in NZ. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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