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There are 6 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Early Hemi Valve Cover Plug Reach Stamp
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Engine/Compression question
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Heater A/C control question
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. I know I could figure this out,but
From: jtabo@xxxxxxx
6. Re: Engine/Compression question
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 07:33:47 -0600
From: "Wayne Graefen" <wgraefen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Early Hemi Valve Cover Plug Reach Stamp
With Terry's post and that of Philippe, I' getting the impression we are
on
to something that was present on ALL early hemis. Philippe's photo shows
location relative to the Firepower script. Do the Hoeman cars all have
this
in the same location?
We could get a quality vinyl decal made but of course only a rubber stamp
would be authentic.
There is always the question of how far does the restorer need to go
regarding authenticity that neither a judge nor car show observer will
ever
see without disassembling the car.
Wayne
****************
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 17:30:56 -0600
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on early hemis
The stamp shows up on all of my original 55 valve covers and I assume
before
that. Hidden under wire cover.
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Message: 2
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 11:55:24 -0500
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine/Compression question
Johnathan,
I thought about your low compression problem a bit more and realized that
lobes wiped off the camshaft would also starve the engine for air and give
low compression readings. A flat tappet cam will wipe in the first few
minutes of operation if its going to, so don't dismiss the possibility
because the engine is freshly rebuilt.
Take the rocker arm covers off and the spark plugs out. Have someone turn
the engine over with a 1 1/4" socket and ratchet on the crank snout. Watch
each valve in turn and look for any that barely lift. A bad exhaust will
also effect cranking compression so look at both intake and exhaust
valves.
Incidently, the rag in the intake was not ment to sarcastic, I did it once
myself. Good luck. LGJ
>From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Engine/Compression question
>Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 17:46:42 -0500
>Johnathan,
>The only thing I can think of that would cause low compression readings
in
>two cylinders would be something like a rag left in the intake during
>assembly. This would choke off multiple cylinders and give low
compression
>readings because limited air reaches the effected cylinders.
>
>Other that something like that, you have a compression leak. The easiest
>way
>to find such a leak is to pressureize each cylinder with compressed air.
>You
>can buy adaptors to screw into the sparkplug holes and attach the hose
from
>your air compressor. The trick is to locate the piston at the TOP of the
>stroke on the firing position. This must be done accurately or the air
>pressure from the compressor will just push the piston down the bore
until
>a
>valve opens. If you are on TDC on the overlap stroke, both valves will be
>cracked open and you will not develope any pressure in the cylinder.
After
>you get #1 set to TDC and firing, connect the air hose to the adapter
with
>100-125psi and pressureize the cylinder. Listen for air hissing out of
the
>engine at the intake for intake valve leak, exhaust pipe for exhaust
valve
>leak. These should not leak at all. Take the oil filler cap off and
listen
>for crankcase (ring) leakage. All engines will leak a small volume past
the
>rings. If the airstream coming from the filler will disturb cigarette
>smoke,
>be suspicious. Head gasket leaks will usually show up as air bubbles in
the
>radiator, take radiator cap off and look. Check a couple of the "good"
>cylindres to get a baseline and develope some "feel", then check the bum
>cylinders and see what shows up abnormally. Good luck, Larry Johnson
>
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Message: 3
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 11:06:54 -0800
From: Bob Jasinski <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Heater A/C control question
Mike,
I'm a Chrysler guy but have also owned a number of older Mercedes with the
servo device you are describing.
I can tell you from experience that the only way to restore operation is
to replace the servo. Having said that, here is some good advice.
Don't buy a new servo. The cost is high, close to $400.00, and if you
plan on keeping the car awhile it will crack again.
There is a man named George Murphy at Performance Analysis Co. Oak Ridge
Tenn. 865-482-9175, that specializes in rebuilding the servos and also
offers a rebuit unit with an aluminum body that is crackproof. George
knows these things well and is very helpful on the phone. His least
expensive unit is a rebuilt OEM type for $249.00 and you get core value
for your old one. When he rebuilds them he also enhances the original
design by some tricks he has developed to make them more reliable. If the
car is worth preserving, go with the rebuilt aluminum body unit which
should last the life of the car, it's about $75.00 more.
The system works well once it is fixed right. Caution, there are some
other small companies out there that are "rebuilding" the units also.
Don't buy from them, they don't know what they are doing and they have a
high failuure rate. I tried to save a buck and bought a cheaper rebuilt
unit, went through three of them and not a good one in the bunch.
Fix it right the first time and you will be happy in the long run.
Bob J
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 09:44:55 +1300
From: "Owen & Jo Grigg" <ram300@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fw: [FWDLK] Engine knock
Thanks to all that helped out with suggestions on the cause of an engine
knock in a friends '57 Fury motor.
Turned out to be a piston skirt to crank countershaft clearance problem,
as
the pistons heated up the minimal clearance closed up as well, contacting
each other. Ouch! So much for the "reputable" engine builder!
Owen
>
> A few weeks ago I started up my fully rebuilt 57 Fury V-800 318 for the
first time, which is installed in my rebuilt Fury chassis with Torqueflite
trans.
> First impressions were good news, except for an engine noise that at
first
sounded like it was coming from the fuel pump area. However after trying
other fuel pumps, and then investing in a mechanics stethoscope, it was
apparent that the noise was actually coming from the sump, and there is
absolutely no noise whatsoever coming from the head area. And the noise
was
getting worse the longer I ran the engine.
> I have run the engine a total of 3 times, on seperate days, and every
time, the engine purred like a kitten on initial start up, sounds perfect,
and then the noise comes along after about 30 seconds.
> I had the engine rebuilder come and listen, and again it ran real smooth
for 30 seconds until the noise started, and then we ran it for maybe 2
minutes while he was tring to figure out where the noise was coming from.
We
removed plug leads hoping it would tell us which cylinder was the problem,
and this did not make the noise go away. By this time the noise was
sounding
real nasty, so we shut it down and agreed that the engine had to come out
for inspection.
> Prior to initial start up I had 40 pounds pressure on cranking, and then
65 pounds when running.
> My sump plug has a magnet, and when I drained the oil there was nothing
apparent on the magnet.
> The rebuilder removed the sump the following day, and the worst news of
all is that there is nothing visible wrong with the engine. All bearing
clearances are perfect, there is plenty of clearance in the sump for the
oil
pickup, no marks on the sump, and the crankshaft was crack tested.
Everything seems OK.
> We do not want to remove the heads if we don't have to, and besides, the
stethoscope clearly showed that the noise was coming from down low.
> The company that rebuilt my engine is a well equipped shop with a good
reputation. They are scratching their heads big time!
> The real strange thing, and maybe the biggest clue, is that this noise
comes along only after about 30 seconds running from cold.
> Thanks in advance for any clues.
> Glenn Barratt,
> 57 Fury,
> Auckland, New Zealand.
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>
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>
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 17:25:32 EST
From: jtabo@xxxxxxx
Subject: I know I could figure this out,but
In a message dated 11/17/2001 1:41:33 AM Mountain Standard Time,
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< pennsy300@xxxxxxx
Subject: I Know I could figure this out, but...
Which way (clockwise or counter) would I rotate the distributor on my F
to
retard the timing?
>>
Counter clockwise. It's easy to tell by looking at the vacuum advance
unit.
If vacuum is applied it will pull the points plate to the advanced
position
(clockwise in our case).
John Roth
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 20:04:26 -0800 (PST)
From: moparted <moparted_70@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine/Compression question
This is NOT a carb problem.
--- Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Quick question about compression:
>
> I just had my 413 rebuilt along with the carb.
> Replaced/rebuilt a lot of the other engine
> components
> at the same time.
>
> Unfortunately, after putting it all together and
> starting it up I find that I have low compression in
> two chambers. Around 30 when of course it should be
> up
> around 90.
>
> Now I've heard differing views on this, but my
> question is, can the compression problems be
> anywhere
> besides inside the chamber. Like in the carb, maybe?
> Or does it have to be either the rings or how the
> valves are seated?
>
> I guess what I'm asking is, am I going to have to
> pull
> the engine off and get the rebuilders to take it
> apart
> again?
>
> Always grateful for the advice,
> Jonathan
>
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