[Chrysler300] Digest Number 86

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[Chrysler300] Digest Number 86

From: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 03:33:24 -0500

Title: [Chrysler300] Digest Number 86

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------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 16 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. 300 G motor oil questions
           From: "Myles Wallace" <myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Question on early hemis
           From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: Question on early hemis
           From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. Humm,
           From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
      5. RE: 300 G motor oil questions
           From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
      6. RE: 300 G motor oil questions
           From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
      7. I Know I could figure this out, but...
           From: pennsy300@xxxxxxx
      8. Engine/Compression question
           From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
      9. Engine/Compression - answer
           From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. RE: 300 G motor oil questions
           From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
     11. Re: Engine/Compression question
           From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Engine/Compression question
           From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Re: Engine/Compression question
           From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. Heater A/C control question
           From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
     15. 2 to 3 cond. 300 F
           From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     16. Re: 2 to 3 cond. 300 F
           From: RONVE@xxxxxxx

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 07:26:03 -0500
From: "Myles Wallace" <myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 300 G motor oil questions

A couple general and specific questions regarding engine oil for my 300 G project.

I changed the oil recently with 5 quarts of 10W/40 -- any thoughts on the grade which is recommended?

The oil tube and stick do not appear to be original (no stopper on the stick like the transmission stick). What is the factory length of the stick? Any channels into where one (used, or repo) can be acquired?

- Could it be air coming through the stick tube described above?
- What about a bad PCV value (frankly I can't seem to locate one --- do these 413 max wedge cross rams have one?)

- Or could it be a vacuum leak (I do have the lines to the air/heater controls disconnected as I work on the switch in the console)

As always, thanks for the input. BTW, planning on giving an update on my electrical challenges soon -- thanks for all the feedback -- most helpful.

Myles

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:14:59 +0100
From: Philippe COURANT <accf_clb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on early hemis

Paul you're right ! There was a decal (or rubber stamp) on the
right valve cover between # 2 and # 4 sparkplugs.
I took a pic of it when i dismantled a '57 Imperial which was
wrecked since 1967 so all parts of this car were original. But
the decal was in bad condition and i couldn't read the text which
began with "Use only .." i believe. There was also a drawing of
the end of the sparkplug which shows the lenght of the threads.
You can see the pic at http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f/spk.htm

--
Philippe COURANT (Pau, France)
Imperial 57 Crown convertible
Buick 58 Roadmaster sedan

- American Car Club de France (ACCF) : http://www.accf.com

- Chrysler Imperial France : http://www.ifrance.com/c-i-f

- Cadillac " Standard of Excellence " :
http://www.ifrance.com/accf-cad

- SportsCars : http://www.ifrance.com/accf-sprtcar

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 17:30:56 -0600
From: "Terry & Andree Hoeman" <tehoema@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on early hemis

The stamp shows up on all of my original 55 valve covers and I assume before
that. Hidden under wire cover.
----- Original Message -----
From: "paulholm" <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
Cc: <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>; <L-FORWARDLOOK@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>; "Multiple
recipients of MoPar" <mml@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 4:49 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Question on early hemis

> Anyone know when Chrysler used a rubber stamp marking
> on the hemi valvecovers to inform the mechanics of the
> type of sparkplug to use in the early hemis???
>
> --
> Paul Holmgren
> Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
> 2 57 300-C's in Indy
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>
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>
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>
>
>
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>

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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 12:02:05 -0500
From: paulholm <paulholm@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Humm,

just a short fyi

seems to be a reasonably nice 300-E on e-bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=598022961

--
Paul Holmgren
Hoosier Corps #33, L-6
2 57 300-C's in Indy

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:23:19 -0700
From: john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: 300 G motor oil questions

Sounds like a classic case of blow-by to me.
How old is the engine? Ever been rebuilt?
If it has the California PCV, the hose will be attached to the balance tube
between the rams (which will have a nipple for the hose that non-PCV valve
cars won't have. The valve itself will be in the passenger side rocker
cover near the back.
I suppose any of us with G's could measure the dipstick from our cars and
let you know the particulars, but I don't know off the top of my head.
John
G vert

-----Original Message-----
From: Myles Wallace [mailto:myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 7:26 AM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 G motor oil questions

A couple general and specific questions regarding engine oil for my 300 G
project.

I changed the oil recently with 5 quarts of 10W/40 -- any thoughts on the
grade which is recommended?

The oil tube and stick do not appear to be original (no stopper on the stick
like the transmission stick). What is the factory length of the stick? Any
channels into where one (used, or repo) can be acquired?

Lastly, I have an oil leak and it appears to be coming directly from the
filler cap. With the oil change I cleaned the cap and resoaked it in oil.
What could be causing a decent amount of oil lose through the cap?
        -   Could it be air coming through the stick tube described above?
        -   What about a bad PCV value (frankly I can't seem to locate one
--- do these 413 max wedge cross rams have one?)
        -   Or could it be a vacuum leak (I do have the lines to the
air/heater controls disconnected as I work on the switch in the
console)

As always, thanks for the input. BTW, planning on giving an update on my
electrical challenges soon -- thanks for all the feedback -- most helpful.

Myles

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To send a message to this group, send an email to:
Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

For list server instructions, go to
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 10:53:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Bruce Paul <b_paul_ncp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300 G motor oil questions

The oil capacity is 5 quarts if you didn't change the
filter. Add one more if you changed the oil filter.

Bruce Paul-Cherry Hill

--- john_nowosacki@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> Sounds like a classic case of blow-by to me.
> How old is the engine? Ever been rebuilt?
> If it has the California PCV, the hose will be
> attached to the balance tube
> between the rams (which will have a nipple for the
> hose that non-PCV valve
> cars won't have. The valve itself will be in the
> passenger side rocker
> cover near the back.
> I suppose any of us with G's could measure the
> dipstick from our cars and
> let you know the particulars, but I don't know off
> the top of my head.
> John
> G vert
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Myles Wallace [mailto:myles1@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 7:26 AM
> To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [Chrysler300] 300 G motor oil questions
>
>
> A couple general and specific questions regarding
> engine oil for my 300 G
> project.
>
> I changed the oil recently with 5 quarts of 10W/40
> -- any thoughts on the
> grade which is recommended?
>
> The oil tube and stick do not appear to be original
> (no stopper on the stick
> like the transmission stick). What is the factory
> length of the stick? Any
> channels into where one (used, or repo) can be
> acquired?
>
> Lastly, I have an oil leak and it appears to be
> coming directly from the
> filler cap. With the oil change I cleaned the cap
> and resoaked it in oil.
> What could be causing a decent amount of oil lose
> through the cap?
>         -   Could it be air coming through the stick
> tube described above?
>         -   What about a bad PCV value (frankly I
> can't seem to locate one
> --- do these 413 max wedge cross rams have one?)
>         -   Or could it be a vacuum leak (I do have
> the lines to the
> air/heater controls disconnected as I work on the
> switch in the
> console)
>
> As always, thanks for the input.   BTW, planning on
> giving an update on my
> electrical challenges soon -- thanks for all the
> feedback -- most helpful.
>
> Myles
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been
> removed]
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> For list server instructions, go to
> http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>

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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:03:20 EST
From: pennsy300@xxxxxxx
Subject: I Know I could figure this out, but...

Which way (clockwise or counter) would I rotate the distributor on my F to
retard the timing?

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 8
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:19:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine/Compression question

Hi all,

Quick question about compression:

I just had my 413 rebuilt along with the carb.
Replaced/rebuilt a lot of the other engine components
at the same time.

Unfortunately, after putting it all together and
starting it up I find that I have low compression in
two chambers. Around 30 when of course it should be up
around 90.

Now I've heard differing views on this, but my
question is, can the compression problems be anywhere
besides inside the chamber. Like in the carb, maybe?
Or does it have to be either the rings or how the
valves are seated?

I guess what I'm asking is, am I going to have to pull
the engine off and get the rebuilders to take it apart
again?

Always grateful for the advice,
Jonathan

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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 9
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:34:10 -0500
From: John Hertog <crossram@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Engine/Compression - answer

Hi Jonathan,

Sorry to hear about your low compression problems. It is good that you took
a compression reading. Please inform us specifically what cylinders are
affected - are they adjacent? what are the two cylinder numbers?

Basically, low compression such as you indicate should emanate from
somewhere around the valve area... it seems doubtful that it could be a
piston / ring problem.

Remove the intake and valve covers and observe the valves opening and
closing for the affected cylinders. Are the pushrods correctly located, and
are the rockers moving up and down as the others? Have the lifters pumped up
?

No, low compression cannot be due to carburetor. Compression occurs when the
piston travels upwards and pushes air ( and fuel, hopefully) into the
combustion chamber, where both valves should be shut..

john

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathan Sacks" <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 2:19 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Engine/Compression question

> Hi all,
>
> Quick question about compression:
>
> I just had my 413 rebuilt along with the carb.
> Replaced/rebuilt a lot of the other engine components
> at the same time.
>
> Unfortunately, after putting it all together and
> starting it up I find that I have low compression in
> two chambers. Around 30 when of course it should be up
> around 90.
>
> Now I've heard differing views on this, but my
> question is, can the compression problems be anywhere
> besides inside the chamber. Like in the carb, maybe?
> Or does it have to be either the rings or how the
> valves are seated?
>
> I guess what I'm asking is, am I going to have to pull
> the engine off and get the rebuilders to take it apart
> again?
>
> Always grateful for the advice,
> Jonathan
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
> http://personals.yahoo.com
>

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 10
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 14:19:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Andy Mikonis <r41hp@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: 300 G motor oil questions

Just pulled the 'stick out of my '61 NYer, because it
was here. It's about 26 1/4" long, the stopper is
anchored at around 23 1/2". It's sort of a cup-shaped
affair. George Riehl once told me their was a small
freeze plug available that made for a decent
replacement...just make a hole in it. Maybe yours
just fell off. It fell off my G's stick, too.

Andy

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Message: 11
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 17:38:22 -0500
From: "Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine/Compression question

Another thing that can cause low compression on a fresh rebuild would be the
wrong lifters. If late lifters are used with early pushrods, the lifters
will bottom out because the pushrods are longer on the early type. The
result will be that the valves will be open slightly. With a cylinder at TDC
on compression, see if you can rotate the pushrod by hand. You should be
able to. If you can't, then the lifter or pushrods are wrong, or to much was
cut off the heads and the pushrods are to long. This should have been
checked by whoever rebuilt the engine. Some disassembly will be required.
300ly,
Don
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 2:19 PM
Subject: [Chrysler300] Engine/Compression question

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 17:46:42 -0500
From: "Laurence G. Johnson" <laurence_g_johnson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine/Compression question

Johnathan,
The only thing I can think of that would cause low compression readings in
two cylinders would be something like a rag left in the intake during
assembly. This would choke off multiple cylinders and give low compression
readings because limited air reaches the effected cylinders.

Other that something like that, you have a compression leak. The easiest way
to find such a leak is to pressureize each cylinde with compressed air. You
can buy adaptors to screw into the sparkplug holes and attach the hose from
your air compressor. The trick is to locate the piston at the TOP of the
stroke on the firing position. This must be done accurately or the air
pressure from the compressor will just push the piston down the bore until a
valve opens. If you are on TDC on the overlap stroke, both valves will be
cracked open and you will not develope any pressure in the cylinder. After
you get #1 set to TDC and firing, connect the air hose to the adapter with
100-125psi and pressureize the cylinder. Listen for air hissing out of the
engine at the intake for intake valve leak, exhaust pipe for exhaust valve
leak. These should not leak at all. Take the oil filler cap off and listen
for crankcase (ring) leakage. All engines will leak a small volume past the
rings. If the airstream coming from the filler will disturb cigarette smoke,
be suspicious. Head gasket leaks will usually show up as air bubbles in the
radiator, take radiator cap off and look. Check a couple of the "good"
cylindres to get a baseline and develope some "feel", then check the bum
cylinders and see what shows up abnormally. Good luck, Larry Johnson

>From: Jonathan Sacks <jwsacks@xxxxxxxxx>
>To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [Chrysler300] Engine/Compression question
>Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 11:19:14 -0800 (PST)
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>
>Hi all,
>
>Quick question about compression:
>
>I just had my 413 rebuilt along with the carb.
>Replaced/rebuilt a lot of the other engine components
>at the same time.
>
>Unfortunately, after putting it all together and
>starting it up I find that I have low compression in
>two chambers. Around 30 when of course it should be up
>around 90.
>
>Now I've heard differing views on this, but my
>question is, can the compression problems be anywhere
>besides inside the chamber. Like in the carb, maybe?
>Or does it have to be either the rings or how the
>valves are seated?
>
>I guess what I'm asking is, am I going to have to pull
>the engine off and get the rebuilders to take it apart
>again?
>
>Always grateful for the advice,
>Jonathan
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
>http://personals.yahoo.com

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Message: 13
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 15:16:33 -0800
From: G Barker <gbarker@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine/Compression question

Make sure when you take your compression readings that you hold the throttle wide open.
if you don't you will get false readings. Another thing you can do to see if it is
rings is to put 5-6 squirts of oil in the cylinder that is low. crank the engine over a
few times to spread the oil around. Then take your compression readings again. If they
come up a good amount it means your rings are leaking. If it makes very little
difference then it is valves or gasket.....Gary Barker

Jonathan Sacks wrote:

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 14
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 18:43:28 EST
From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx
Subject: Heater A/C control question

Allow me to introduce two bad words to those of you lucky enough not to
have experienced them before now... "auto temp" Yep.. that big stupid
servo / heater control valve assy on my 73 town&country "300 parts chaser,
tow vehicle " is giving me grief like a tomahawk on a taliban. For those
unfamiliar with it let me paint a little picture of this little black box.
It's a spaghetti - bomb with about 25 connections of vacuum lines, electrical
wires and heater hoses. Whew !

Anyway, the servo was bypassed when I got the car and I cant even get the
fan motor to blow unless I give it direct juice... the dash buttons don't do
a thing... its like they aren't even there ( yes the fuse is good )
Reading the service manual tells me that the fan motor wont operate unless
the coolant is warmed up which it cant because the servo is bypassed because
the plastic case is cracked.

Question : Anyone out there able to tell me how to bypass this thing but
fool the system into letting the blower motor come on?   If not and I run a
separate switch and feed the blower motor directly will the full 12v burn the
motor out ( I think there's a resistor inline somewhere)
        I know there's got to be an alternative to getting the system to
operate other than a $400 Mercedes part which seems to interchange.   I don't
care about the heater working ( this is phoenix after all ) but if the system
wont operate and I can't get the A/C to work by next summer than this 440
powered SUV is gonna have to find a new home back east where it's a little
cooler.
    Any and all offers of assistance from anyone remotely familiar with this
is greatly appreciated

Thanks
Mike Laiserin

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 15
Date: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 00:14:47 +0000
From: "thomas powers" <classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2 to 3 cond. 300 F

Hello chrysler 300 group.
I am looking for a 60 300 F thats in 2 to 3 condition and be in a totally no
rust cond. that runs and drives nicely so that upkeep is all that is needed
but most important thing is to have it be a 100 percent no rust car.I would
even consider a 60 N.Y. two dr. coupe in very nice cond in the price range
of 20,000 thousand thank you for your help tom from catskill n.y.

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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 21:53:41 EST
From: RONVE@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: 2 to 3 cond. 300 F

In a message dated 11/16/2001 6:17:47 PM Central Standard Time,
classiccars64@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:

> Hello chrysler 300 group.
> I am looking for a 60 300 F thats in 2 to 3 condition and be in a totally
> no
> rust cond. that runs and drives nicely so that upkeep is all that is needed
> but most important thing is to have it be a 100 percent no rust car.I would
> even consider a 60 N.Y. two dr. coupe in very nice cond in the price range
> of 20,000 thousand thank you for your help tom from catskill n.y.
>

Tom,
Check out <A HREF="" href="http://www.volocars.com/">http://www.volocars.com/">Volo Auto Museum</A> they currently have a couple of 300's, one
of which is a '60 F.
Ron...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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